While fashion is part theater and art, there is nothing I love more than seeing a really great mens collection awash all the womens shows that flood my internet dashboards during the season. The Wantanabe show was one of my favorites. One of the main aspects I liked of the show was its love letter to London, a city I happen to love myself. Part Westwood punk and Oliver Twist, the patchwork detail on the pants and the knits, yep color me inspired.
images via style.com
Simply put I love looking at menswear. Especially when it’s on the runway. For this recap on some of the best shows, I have only decided to include three of them. I’ll probably make a cool pinterest board with all the looks I love. There are quite simply too many. This was one of my favorite fashion week seasons for the boys by far.
Ann Demeulemeester SS 2014 Mens
From all the stripes, tailored waistcoats, and messy styling I’m fully down with this collection. The baroque style of the jackets with a satin flair still manages to have Demeulemeester’s gothic spirit. There need to be more men walking around on the street like this. Immediately.
Rick Owens SS 14 Mens
Only Rick Owens could stage a fashion show in the midst of a mosh pit. His show titled “Vicious” was a nod to his youth in LA but more importantly a fun version of something so raw and primal. It’s great to see Rick’s collections each season because they are just so on point. This collection just gives us a little more breathing room and the freedom to mosh, just like our youth.
Paul Smith SS 14 Mens
What would a spring season be without a little mod cheekiness from Paul Smith. Over the past few weeks I’ve been all into the mod pop culture. Especially the fashion. From the 70s colors to the straight boxy silhouettes, these have just a bit of edge to them.
images via style.com
Another reason why I need to get over to Scandinavia again. Norway’s Mardou & Dean recently showed their AW13 line “Souterrain”, a brilliant blend of both grunge and hip-hop influences. It seems that even in all corners of the world the way of the 90s is certainly back. This line effortlessly mixes leathers, knits, and the “long johns’ look of the Pacific Northwest. Designer Ingrid Bredholt said about the collection, “
“With this collection we are working with the aesthetics of the drama and colors suggested by Baz Luhrman’s version of Romeo&Juliet. We wanted to create a dark and mystical atmosphere and show our interpretation of Zeitgeist.”
I know summer is barely here but I can’t wait to bring on the rainy season wrapped in some chunky sweaters and shearling coats. Sign me up.
Mardou & Dean on Facebook
photos c/o Mardou & Dean
You know that I was beyond elated when I saw the first photos of the new Saint Laurent collection come in. This is truly one show that I wish I could have seen first hand. Throughout the past 5 years grunge has come around both on and off the catwalk but never in a truly audacious way. Hedi Slimane’s second womenswear collection centered around “California grunge” shows Slimane’s love and passion for this truly inspiring time in history.
Mens Saint Laurent f/w 13
While there are so many hot and cold reviews, I personally love the show. He’s taken the Saint Laurent house to a younger crowd and even enlightening some critics into the validity of this time in “anti-fashion”. Judging from the previous fall mens show that was the “Kurt” to this “Courtney”, this collection made perfect sense. Yes, it’s not Yves Saint Laurent by the previous designer, Stefano Pilati but Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane. Fashion by definition is an extension of personal style and art form. So amidst all the perfectly tailored clothes and well thought out structures of the Paris shows, who’s to say that Hedi didn’t plan every detail of his show? I love seeing elements of my adolescence on the catwalks of Paris as I’m sure most of you do as well. This is every inch of Hedi’s aesthetic that I love so dear.
The Fashion Law talked to Courtney Love about the show and she had this to say: “The girl in the brown coat says it all. I love it. It reminds me of Value Village. Real grunge. I love that rich ladies are going to pay a fortune to look like we used to look when we had nothing.” Well said Courtney.
photos via style.com
1. Different from what is usual or expected; strange
The boys behind the vision, Judson Harmon and Jordan Klein have crossed inspirations and have begun to dance boldly in new directions. Resting their creative passions and driven personalities the boys at ODD have really hit some new levels of entity development . Simple silhouettes with bold statements are shown to those of us who wish to dig a bit deeper into the world of fashion. Beautiful lines canvas the body, as the neutral tones carry the emotion and inspiration drawn from the discoloration and ever evolving pages of books. I am completely proud of these two who have taken something they love and have created not only a brand, but a lifestyle. Very inspirational.
I was able to catch up with Judson and get a little more inside into ODD.
CM: In the program you thank your best friend, co designer Jordan. How does it feel to be working with your close friends and how do you two make it work… Keeping a professional and personal relationship?
JH: For us its actually rather easy. We are best friends for a reason. We share a similar vision from different perspectives and different backgrounds and we meet in the middle which is what you see in our collections. We became best friends because of our vision and our mutual goals.
CM: The inspiration for the collection was drawn from “discoloration and abstract history of vintage book pages old ideas brought anew.” Can you explain some of the creative processes you guys went through after coming upon the inspiration?
JH: Our primary inspiration can best be explained in a quote by Ferdinand Foch. “The most powerful weapon on earth is the human soul on fire.” The collection was titled “People Have Weapons,” not from a literal standpoint, but rather from the individual arsenal found within the human personality. Each look for us is a different character with a different story.
CM: How does it feel to be such a young and quickly establishing designer in today’s modern fashion world?
JH: Its intimidating at times, but at the same time it gives me somewhat of an advantage with the younger generations because I know how they think. Mainly because I’m one of them. It was a long process to get people to take me seriously, and I’ll always have to combat that. The journey is never over, and as my brand director Dylan Cornwall always says, “evolve and prosper.” That quote makes more and more sense to me every single day.
CM: What type of advice do you have for other young creators looking to break out into the world?
JH: Do it for yourself, not for anyone else. You write your own story.
CM: ODD definitely seems like it has become more of a lifestyle than a brand, for the all the readers out there can you explain how the ODD lifestyle you exude can be translated into our viewers own subculture? Can you explain how those out there who do not have the means to afford such a high end price point can incorporate the lifestyle you present?
JH: I would definitely agree with you on that to some degree. All I can say is do something every day that scares you, think outside the box, and try everything in your closet on upside down. You’ll be shocked at how much fun you can have with fashion when you ignore the rules.
CM: One last thing. I was told and have heard some rumors that the sand used in the presentation was actually imported from the Colosseum!?!?
JH: That was the initial plan, but as you saw at the presentation there was a lot of sand. If we took that much from the Colosseum in Rome there would likely be a large hole in it, and I don’t think we could get away with that haha. That being said it was certainly one of our inspirations.
designer Judson Harmon
Interview: Cody McCook
Photos: Ernesto Carlos Roman
High fashion, avant-garde designer Long Tran …takes the stage with his newest collection called “anonymous”. With the covering garments placed strategically to mask the nobility without holding back the evolution of inner confidence, this designer is reaching new heights while progressively lifting us to a new plane of fashion. I always look for something new, either in architecture, aesthetic or creation and this designer has perfectly balanced a hip and fresh look for the new age of avant-garde. These bold statements collide with amazing detail. From the wedged men to the cascading material, the thoughts and inspiration behind “anonymous” are clearly stated.
Almost seducing us with the comfort of neutral tones, but exciting us with the incorporation of color he has transcended seasons together, something that todays designers stay away from. He has shown us that breaking the rules in fashion can produce an overwhelming sensation of balance while still being diverse. Complimenting the silhouette he has achieved a touchable look for the untouchable.It’s not all about lace and leather anymore, this is a new era with long tran being one step ahead.
– Cody McCook
-designer Long Tran
ph: Ernesto Carlos Roman
A few weeks ago Cody, the fashion editor here at the blog modeled in the first campaign for SECOND/LAYER, a new brand out of California. Just last week Cody attended their fashion presentation for fashion week in New York. Accompanied with Sean who took some awesome photos of the event, here is his review:
Born on the West Coast under the beaming sun and swaying palms, three boys brought together from years of friendship and common compatability …Anthony Franco, Jacob Willis and Joshua Willis put their friendship and creation into the blender and processed SECOND/LAYER. The focus behind the designs were intended to “create a tailor made, non gender bias form. “. Confidence drips from the completed and pure silhouettes that truly do shape a defined and confident shape. Combining the roots of their lives and evolving them into a brand that defines a sexy, mysterious, and very captivating creation.
Knowing Anthony for a couple years now it excites me to see the evolution he himself has gone through while creating such a staple in such a short time. I was honored to be brought into the project while lending some face for their campaign launch in late January. Complete structure drapes the canvas and not only tips its hat to the fellas but compliments the sleek ladies as well. Neutral tones perfectly designated for the modern sartorialist who “honors an innovative take on classic styles and modern proportions.”
By far this has been one of this seasons most inspirational presentations.
Congrats gents, you nailed it.
the designers and creative team of SECOND/LAYER
Ph: Sean Karimian
Text: Cody McCook
FW ’13 campaign modeled by Cody McCook
It’s the most wonderful time of the year… Nope, not Christmas, fashion week. Cody, the fashion editor for the blog is in NY with our fashion assistant Sean attending some of the shows and braving the snow. While I sit here in sunny LA working on numerous other projects, I still can’t help but follow every step of what is happening for the next fall fashion season. I couldn’t wait to share some of the most intriguing shows so far: Rag & Bone and A Détacher.
-Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone really channelled their British roots with their fall collection. An assortment of tweeds, leather treatments, and bouclé is what we can expect in the winter months to come. It’s a vast complement to their Spring/Summer show which explored marbled leather jackets and color blocking in some of the best neons I’ve ever seen. The Rag & Bone girl is really coming into her own over the past few years. The brand growing at a dynamic rate and if this is the future we have in store then sign me up!
I love volume in my clothing. Show me a cocoon coat and I’m pretty much sold. One of the best elements of any fashion show is the ability to transform your pre-existing thoughts on a particular shape or style and completely redesigning it. This is proven in the latest A Détacher show for the fall season. I’m really loving the layering and the styling overall. Reminds me of something Bjork would wear in other words; perfect and so original.
photos via style.com