Words by Nysie Gunner @nysiegunner & photos by Jessica Gwyneth @jessicamenace
With a blue hue cast upon the collection, Faustine Steinmetz’s ss17 was all about the illusion of light and dark, in the context of polar sensibilities appearing and disappearing in the denim-on-denim looks. With duality at the core, the collection played with the contrasting concept of vulgarity and elegance – two words that, in any other context, would evoke feelings of doubt. However, Steinmetz’s crystal covered, logo monogrammed, hand-weaved denims are innovative, sculptural and the perfect balance between the previous descriptors.
In collaboration with Swarovski, collection 008 displayed crystals placed purposely to echo natural formation, giving every piece of denim an organic feel. As the blue light installation reflected on these adornments, each girl had a delicate mermaid-esque appeal, bathed in blue glitter and body paint, which beautifully juxtaposed the deliberate play with ostentation.
As an ode to Vanessa Beecroft’s Sister Project (2000), Steinmetz gave an up-close and personal view of the collection in the way that the iconic calendar was shot. Influence also came from artist Joseph Kosuth and his One and Three Chairs installation (1965), which represents a chair as a photograph, a physical object, and a dictionary entry for the word. It becomes evident that Steinmetz is inspired by repetition and obsession, and like her influencers, likes to raise questions by using her collection as a platform for debate, as well as exploring and experimenting with new ways to use denim.